Siberian_Jay3x6

Race car on some kind of budget, basics for us clueless ones.

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I didnt find any well mannered, constructive and positive attitude thread to help on building a good race car, so as im trying to build one .

( At this moment also attempting to make it fit the rules of building competition which i missed.  )

So , im not asking for memes, or some Bobs delusional cashgrabs and "buy a packs" ,or other lame nonsense jokes, and i happen to know we have still some nice people who have knowledge and will to help out and im putting my trust on you.

You are all free to tell whats and whys, show your own builds, as long as its on wheels. And no,this aint for hoverites to bark and tell me how those rule. Just wheeled builds and tips.

 

Thanks a lot.

 

Edited by Siberian_Jay3x6

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Wheels are cheaper than hovers.

1:  Duster.  It's just the lightest cabin, and the lighter your overall build, the more you'll get out of your Boosters.

2:  Studded tires in front, Lunar Wheels in back.  You want slightly more traction in rear to get grip when you let off the Boosters.  (Also, pulse your boosters, don't hold them down until you lose control, crash, and explode)  These are the lightest, and lowest drain.  Lunar wheels are the lightest, and lowest drain of the Specials, which you need for Traction.  This is also a pretty affordable set, and even fairly craftable (If you don't mind switching factions 3 times just to craft 2 sets of wheels.)  

3:  Mount your boosters low, but not low enough to scrape the ground.  You have to maintain traction to turn, and you can't do that if you keep bouncing up off the ground.  

4:  Probably the most important thing is splitting your Boosters right, and left.  So, you can hit one side, and turn at speed, even when you momentarily don't have grip.  

5:  Engine choice is pretty much last.  While it's nice to have the Top Speed, you get that mostly from Boosters, so it's generally only significant when they're cooling down, or you're off the juice in a turn.  It's Top Speed/Weight ratio, Cheetah is the fastest, but it's also heavier than Hot Red, or Hardcore.  You may be able to get away without an engine at all, which may leave 1 Energy for another Booster.  (Duster has an odd number of Energy, so you might as well spend that on a Cheetah, but check to see how that affects your Handling.  Honestly, I used it for a Car Jack, with a Hot Red, because that's what worked for my build)  It's expensive, but honestly, there's no substitute for trying the Hardcore, Hot Red, AND Cheetah to see which one works best.  It's not always the Cheetah.  The same goes for the number of Boosters, how many are Hermes, and how many are Blastoffs.  You want to be just fast enough that you don't explode, and get set back to the last gate.

6:  Weight Distribution.  It's up to you how far forward, or back you want your center of gravity, but this is how you adjust your cornering.  (Also, booster placement for booster turns.)  Front engine, or rear engine is pretty much how I do it.

Edited by psiberzerker
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Hey,thats already more than i could have asked for:014:

What i have now in my storage, to use, after reading that, is;

-Duster. My #1 cab to use.

-2x aviator

-2x Blastoff

-2x Hermes

-Hot Red

-Cheetah

-Hardcore, my favourite allaround engine, fused for -17% mass (=42 kg now) and +10% max. cabin speed instead of stock values +9% speed and 50kg mass.

-miscellanous fused Studded tyres,mostly for durability and tonnage. 

- 3 pairs of Lunar ST's and pair non steering ones.

 

 

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I dug through my screenshots, and then i had to rebuild it from memory, because apparently, I forgot to upload it, but anyway, here:

8237A3B4960E6C080596E8AB5D1094B24B019752

Is what I used to clear the "Caged Beast" quest in Adventure mode.  The one with the gauntlet, the Phoenix bolts raining down from above, mines, Kapkans, and a Mandrake at the top when you finish running it?

Yeah, the weight distribution, handling, and steering are dialed in for me.  You might do better with a Cheetah, Hardcore, non-STs in the back, front engine, or whatever.  It's also got plenty of Energy left over to do it with multiple Aviators, if you can't afford Blastoffs.  

460ED7D55C0BE86BE2480A6ADB4DF71ACC71B6C1

Dial it in for you.

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Surprisingly I couldn't find an already existing topic on this subject.

Here's my ride, I'm not  an race-expert, but I had fun playing this little one on race brawl and in the old garage's yard (new yard isn't convenient to race around unfortunately) 

Spoiler

1733657075_screenshot-200714-174947(2854252553870_screenshot-200714-174956(39530

I think I managed to get first once, but being among first 4 is possible. Still require some practice, but fun to play !

Control with right, left , and all boosters with the dedicated key. "Race tricycle v4" in exhibition

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80F86388B07778F5225747FF745EA9F51A712816

Okay, here's the absolute lightest (It can literally fly) and cheapest I could get it, without going Trike.  The Duster is by far the most expensive part, worth more than the rest of it put together, without an Engine.

Don't discount being Small.  In Race mode, being tiny means squeezing through gaps a Hover just won't get through, even sideways.  The whole thing weighs 785 kilos, you could shave off a little more by not equipping a car jack, but i don't recommend it.  

You'd be amazed how much difference in handling it makes to turn your engine upright, or your car-jack pointed forward to extend the wheelbase 1 square.  This just reflects MY design philosophy, "Everything you need, nothing you don't."  Which isn't to say that Horns, and other Decor, bumpers, hovers, et-al are doing it wrong.  It's just not the way I do it, and there are advantages to being as light as possible, too.  

Spoiler

18141D34DEA87C900064EA9E820D9858BF78CA7C

Okay, I have gone even lighter, but you did say "Wheels."  This doesn't even have Frames, but it's designed for flying, not racing.

 

Edited by psiberzerker
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26 minutes ago, Charlie9204 said:

Surprisingly I couldn't find an already existing topic on this subject.

Here's my ride, I'm not  an race-expert, but I had fun playing this little one on race brawl and in the old garage's yard (new yard isn't convenient to race around unfortunately) 

  Reveal hidden contents

1733657075_screenshot-200714-174947(2854252553870_screenshot-200714-174956(39530

I think I managed to get first once, but being among first 4 is possible. Still require some practice, but fun to play !

Control with right, left , and all boosters with the dedicated key. "Race tricycle v4" in exhibition

Yes , i tried to find a thread dedicated for race buildings  but i didnt find more than difficult argues and occasional mentions regarding race builds ,posted in threads about some other main topics, so i thought i'd start one dedicated for wheeled builds.

Thanks for pics,you too Ber-Z ,they add quite a lot to the written tips. 

Edited by Siberian_Jay3x6

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By the way, that's a good topic subject because there's a race map coming soon. source 1281899276994519041https://twitter.com/CROSSOUT_ES/status/1281899276994519041 in spanish.

The Spanish twitter account post some extra stuff than the English one, it's good to keep an eye on it too.

But don't make topics for wheels rave car, then hover cars, then wheeled Griffon car, etc. Please. One is enough. About race vehicles and building advices, all around The race brawl actually.

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1 hour ago, Charlie9204 said:

By the way, that's a good topic subject because there's a race map coming soon. source 1281899276994519041https://twitter.com/CROSSOUT_ES/status/1281899276994519041 in spanish.

The Spanish twitter account post some extra stuff than the English one, it's good to keep an eye on it too.

But don't make topics for wheels rave car, then hover cars, then wheeled Griffon car, etc. Please. One is enough. About race vehicles and building advices, all around The race brawl actually.

This is only for wheeled builds and the only one i am opening,dont worry. Let the hoverians open their own if they want.

:014:

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Crossout-20200714213713.jpg

Crossout-20200714214911.jpg

Crossout-20200714215631.jpg

Tried it a few times with engine in front, then changed it to rear, and adjusted wheelbase, and tried to make the front wheels have somewhat same trackwidth as in rear to avoid flipping as ive experienced it helps in my case.

Adjusted place of boosters, and now it turns rather ok. By adding 2 blocks of wheelbase at some point and adding some grille bits, the front tires got even better. They are fused for +25% more grip.

Anywhere near something worth trying?

 

Edited by Siberian_Jay3x6

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7 minutes ago, Siberian_Jay3x6 said:

Anywhere near something worth trying?

It's your build, and you're actually in a position to drive it.  As long as you can handle it in turns, it doesn't really matter what anyone else says, now does it?

Especially when it comes to Racing, which is pretty much pure driving, the way You handle it is the single most important thing.

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4 minutes ago, psiberzerker said:

It's your build, and you're actually in a position to drive it.  As long as you can handle it in turns, it doesn't really matter what anyone else says, now does it?

Especially when it comes to Racing, which is pretty much pure driving, the way You handle it is the single most important thing.

Yeah i know,but im interested to hear opinions from ones who have driven Races and can say something just after eyeballing the pics.

Got to think of putting boosters on left and right triggers and try if it helps while turning.

Edit...well i noticed you said about splitting the boosters. Stupid me.

Edited by Siberian_Jay3x6

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22 minutes ago, Siberian_Jay3x6 said:

im interested to hear opinions from ones who have driven Races and can say something just after eyeballing the pics.

Nice center of gravity.  Nice thing about ultra-light Cabins like Howl, and Duster is you can hang them all the way out front, and not throw your balance off.  If that's enough boost for you without blowing up, great!  You have enough wheelbase there to just stick on 2 Hermes.  They last longer, both in terms of cooling, and fuel.

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3 minutes ago, psiberzerker said:

Nice center of gravity.  Nice thing about ultra-light Cabins like Howl, and Duster is you can hang them all the way out front, and not throw your balance off.  If that's enough boost for you without blowing up, great!  You have enough wheelbase there to just stick on 2 Hermes.  They last longer, both in terms of cooling, and fuel.

Well i sure blow up often in test drive but its maybe more due to not using boosters ever before for anything except for the Skinner parkour:015j:

Now i just need to find that race!

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4 minutes ago, Siberian_Jay3x6 said:

Now i just need to find that race!

That was this morning.  I didn't win any, but I sure had fun trying!

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3 minutes ago, psiberzerker said:

That was this morning.  I didn't win any, but I sure had fun trying!

I can believe,for what ive seen in Youtube. Too bad theres no good info in garage, like a big blinker or counter i forming about races. They should be like non stop,i say. So everyone has a good chance without staying up all night, waiting to be let in.

Well i got to find out when the next one is. 

Meanwhile i'lm try to see if i can train myself on the booster use to avoid blowing up.

 

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9 minutes ago, Siberian_Jay3x6 said:

Meanwhile i'lm try to see if i can train myself on the booster use to avoid blowing up.

Bedlam.  Yeah, people will try to kill you, but that just makes it more exciting!  It's Ravagers' Foothold today, too.

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Update: The practice track (Bedlam) is Fortress today.  I was serious, practicing in the Test Area, you don't have to avoid anyone, or worry about people sniping you.  It's not real good practice for Race Mode.  Fortress is a great track to practice on.

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1/ exploding when you touch the ground


I see lots of legends about this. Here's how it works: If you touch the ground at 240+ kmh with anything else than your wheels, you explode. That means if your frame scrapes the ground, you explode. What does it mean for you? That ground clearance is very important. I see in your pics that you're using studded wheels (1.23 blocks of clearance, basically as low as it gets without being unracable) but also building one block below the frame. This will make you explode as soon as you go above 250 kmh. Your rear wheels are even lower, as Lunar wheels don't even have a full block of clearance if I remember well. Lunar wheels look cool on art builds, but are not really useful for actual racing.

2/ understanding how thrust works

Your boosters are NOT increasing your car's speed. They're merely thrusting, and depending on where you place them they'll have very different effects on the way your car handles.

-Above/below Center of Mass. This makes the nose of the car go down/up when you boost. Generally, if you place your boosters flush with your frame, you should go slightly nose down. It's good to an extent because it keeps your steering wheels on the ground, but if it's too violent you'll end up hitting the dirt with your nose when you go over light bumps.
If you wanna keep control of your car in the air or retain the ability to boost in the air, you'll need a set of boosters roughly aligned with your CoM. I personally use forward-facing boosters to turn on each click and ALWAYS align them with the CoM. This allows me to turn in the air, or even boost by holding both clicks.

-In front/behind the CoM. Simply put, if your booster is in front of your center of mass, it will pull the car. If it's behind, it will push it. This is important, and you can all see why if you have some small thing around you to experiment. If you try to pull an object, the force you exert will straighten its course. If you try to push an object on the other hand, it will be prone to deviating.
This means that boosters placed in front of your CoM will straighten your trajectory, while boosters placed behind tend to make you drift. I often drift in races (rare wheels) and when I'm drifting I have two options: using my front boosters to straighten my trajectory, or using my back boosters to drift more.
Correct placement of boosters makes or breaks cars, and you'll have to find settings and  building tricks wich suit you.

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3 hours ago, Clebardman said:

2/ understanding how thrust works

All great information.  One point:

Quote

Simply put, if your booster is in front of your center of mass, it will pull the car. If it's behind, it will push it.

Keep in mind that regardless of Physics, each module is On Center.  So, the Center of your Booster has to be in front of, or behind the Center of Mass, not the Nozzles.  (As they would if it was real thrust against a real mass.)  If the center of your boosters is in front of the CoM and the nozzles are behind it, you'll still be pulling yourself around, because of the way the "Physics" of modules works.  Likewise, if you turn a  Large Slope over, so the fat end is above the point, it has the same CoM as if the fat base was at the bottom, pointing up.  Because to the "Physics" engine, it's just a 2x2x4 solid block of Mass, and Durability.

Edited by psiberzerker
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13 hours ago, Clebardman said:

1/ exploding when you touch the ground


I see lots of legends about this. Here's how it works: If you touch the ground at 240+ kmh with anything else than your wheels, you explode. That means if your frame scrapes the ground, you explode. What does it mean for you? That ground clearance is very important. I see in your pics that you're using studded wheels (1.23 blocks of clearance, basically as low as it gets without being unracable) but also building one block below the frame. This will make you explode as soon as you go above 250 kmh. Your rear wheels are even lower, as Lunar wheels don't even have a full block of clearance if I remember well. Lunar wheels look cool on art builds, but are not really useful for actual racing.



.
 

@Clebardman hey thanks for the insight :014:. 

Would you mind sharing pic/s of your racers and also name the wheels you suggest?

 

I for one havent posted any art builds in this thread, but yes, to me its huge plus if the vehicle does have positive appeal. Same reason why i dont use any spaced armour nor sideways hovers ,just as an example of my way to approach this game and builds.

I can only wonder the logic behind "when you go over xxx kmh, you explode" just as i wonder whats the idea of making build explode if any part except wheel scrapes the ground a bit, it again blows up. 

You see race cars doing tons of spoiler scraping, exhausts scrape tracks, gravel etc with out blowing up.

"But they dont have these boosters nor do they do it at that speed" ?

I rather accept it if you blow up after your booster itself has scraped off its durability in the ground.

But thats about it,back race car builds. 

I was adviced to go to Bedlam and i did for some 2 hours in a row and it seemed theres always 2-5 race cars.

Too bad theres no drag strip or a marked track as we tried still to launch races,driving along the maps borders. 

To my surprise the other builds in map who had weapons,pretty much left us interrupted,i mean as long as they saw were unarmed clowns, they didnt bother.

Nicest surprise to me was that these racers all were built to look the part. I mean really really nice compact, aerodynamic stuff, and they instantly tried to catch my attention to take some race attempts. 

 

 

 

Edited by Siberian_Jay3x6

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@Siberian_Jay3x6 Well, I don't have much to show. I mean I do have 4-5 racers in stock, but I only post stuff I'm happy with and as far as racers go there's only one car I'm really happy with. Here you go:

XBpnhri.jpg

You can clearly see that I keep my stuff flush with the frame to get as much ground clearance as I can out of those 4 Studded wheels. My shift boosters are 2 Avias in front and 2 Blastoffs in the back, 1 block above frame. This makes it drift slightly when boosting, and anchors it nicely to the ground. My left and right boosters are at frame level on the sides and allow me to turn at high speed, and retain control in the air.
Another design point I like is to have your wheels flush with your sides. Lots of people have wheels sticking out of their build, and I see them stuck on gates/trees all the time... Don't be that sude, make a tidy flush side to your car xD

For wheels, I'd say ground clearance > weight > power drain. Studdeds are IMO the minimum to race (Landing gears are slightly lower at 1.20, and then come the racing wheels wich are unracable with 1.17 blocks of ground clearance). Chained wheels are good. Gunmount wheels too, they're the tallest besides Large/Bigfoots

 

 

Edited by Clebardman
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6 minutes ago, Clebardman said:

@Siberian_Jay3x6 Well, I don't have much to show. I mean I do have 4-5 racers in stock, but I only post stuff I'm happy with and as far as racers go there's only one car I'm really happy with. Here you go:

XBpnhri.jpg

You can clearly see that I keep my stuff flush with the frame to get as much ground clearance as I can out of those 4 Studded wheels. My shift boosters are 2 Avias in front and 2 Blastoffs in the back, 1 block above frame. This makes it drift slightly when boosting, and anchors it nicely to the ground. My left and right boosters are at frame level on the sides and allow me to turn at high speed, and retain control in the air.
Another design point I like is to have your wheels flush with your sides. Lots of people have wheels sticking out of their build, and I see them stuck on gates/trees all the time... Don't be that sude, make a tidy flush side to your car xD

 

 

I gotta say im very surprised, and only in positive way after seeing that build.

I was expecting to see some hasty looking xxxx but hey, that looks good and car, realistic even. Way cool,thanks.

The wheels in it, theyre studded but with a ck ? Really makes a difference to the looks.

 

Edited by Siberian_Jay3x6

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